Care must be taken to prevent corrosion. Whenever your blade is exposed to potentially corrosive fluid (blood, tree sap, fruit juice, ect.) it must be cleaned. This can generally be accomplished by simply rinsing in water. A mild soap may be used if desired. After the cleaning,  be sure to dry the blade thoroughly before returning  it to the sheath. Occasionally applying a light coat of oil will help protect the blade from humity and keep it in mint condition.

Wood, Stag and Ivory Handles:
Few things can compare to the beauty of a nicely polished piece of antler, ivory or exotic hardwood. In order to maintain the natural beauty if these materials, it is best to avoid prolonged exposure to moisture or direct sunlight, as well as exposure to harsh chemicals. If needed an application of tung oil will rejuvenate the wood and bring back its glossy appearance.

Stabilized Wood Handles:
Stabilized wood has been impregnated with acrylic resins and is very resistant to the elements. Therefore, very little is required to maintain it. Still, it is a good idea to avoid contact with chemicals and prolonged exposure to sunlight.

Synthetic Handles:
Synthetic  handle materials such as Micarta, G-10 or Carbon Fiber offer the ultimate in handle performance. They do not require maintenance and are impervious to temperature and humidity.

Proper Use

Although it may be tempting at times, refrain from using your  knives for prying, as a screwdriver, as a chisel, or for anything knives are not intended. It is also not recommended to use the back or side of your knife  as hammering instruments unless it is specifically designed to handle that task. Doing so may cause the pins, springs, or handle to loosen or even break.

Sand and grit should be kept away from the knife, so be attentive when outdoors using your camping knives or fillet knife. And, if your knife gets wet you should dry it right away. It's recommended to wash the blade with a mild soapy water solution then dry it completely.

Stainless Steel

The term "stainless steel" signifies that the knife will not rust in a humid atmosphere and that it will resist the various acids in daily use. It does not mean, however, that the steel is absolutely rustproof. The coarser the surface finish, the more likely it is to corrode. In other words, the more finely ground or polished the surface of the blade, the more resistant to corrosion it is.

The expertise of a knife manufacturer shows itself in his ability to select the appropriate steel for the intended purpose. A quality blade is generally achieved by the corresponding chemical composition and appropriate heat treatment.

Although most blades today are predominantly made of a hard grade stainless steel, surface rust or stains will inevitably form. This can usually be cleaned with a mild scouring powder, or mildly abrasive pad.

The weakest part of ANY knife is usually the tip, which happens to be the most abused part! Take care of the point, and the rest of the blade will follow.

NEVER THROW KNIVES, unless specifically designed for that use.

NEVER use knives to pry.

Do not leave knives and sheaths in direct sun or high heat. High ultraviolet oxidizes woods and bleaches the color out of some gemstone. Heat bakes the protective oils out of most hardwoods and weakens adhesive bonds.

Hand wash blades when necessary with non-abrasive gentle detergent, polish blades and fittings with good quality polish like Simichrome. Clean handles and sheaths with damp cloth and buff with soft dry cloth.

Do not oil sheaths; this will cause them to soften, weakening their protective function, softening glues, sealants, and dyes.

Protect carbon steel knives with a light coating of hand-buffed wax, not oil. Oil attracts dust as well as weakens the sheath.

Some carbon steel knife blades are blued. Nitrate bluing is a very thin patina that will wear away, leaving a gray metal finish. Sodium (gun) bluing is black, more penetrating, but will also eventually wear away. These are hot blues; used to temper, lightly protect, or cosmetically enhance the blades. They are rust inhibitors, not rust preventatives.

Wood handles usually benefit from a light coating of furniture wax and a good hand rubbing.

Brass and Nickel Silver fittings can be buffed and lightly waxed for protection.

It is normal for some scuffing to show on the front bolster or guard, this is where the sheath holds the knife.

For long term storage, store your knife WITH the sheath, not IN it! The chemicals used in tanning of leather sometimes react with moisture in the air, leading to corroding of even stainless steels! Wrap your dry knife in plain paper, store with sheath and photographic quality desiccant in a plastic bag.

KEEP KNIVES SHARP! Most accidents occur when dull knives are pushed too hard.